Monday, May 18, 2009

The Last Day in the Land of Paprika & Sunflowers: the Magyar Memoir Part 15

When I awoke from another night of comma-like sleep as a result of our busy, non-stop tourism of the past few days; I remember thinking, "this is my last day, yet there was so much more I want to experience, so I didn't have even a moment to lament". On that note, we were up and running until the heavy rain stopped us in our tracks. This weakened our resolve to get out and explore with the initial urgency we had just shared previous to this discovery. We eased into the morning by stepping into the quick-order counter next to the hostel. The cafe offered cheap internet so we ordered up a round of coffee, some toasted bagels and re-connected with the world, for the first time in a couple weeks. When I checked my Myspace account I noticed that a handful of my Hungarian high school students had added me. While this seemed a bit inappropriate, being in my 30s and having a bunch of 15-years-olds on my page, how could I say no?

After we finished our morning snack and exhausted our internet time, the rain had not ceased, but the day was slipping away, so we covered up, and set out on an adventure. I don't think we necessarily had a destination, we just found a direction we hadn't been and off we slushed. One of the places we stumbled upon was this second rate mall, the stores included a used bookstore, a travel agency, a briefcase store, and a few other nameless boutiques that were closed anyway, that was about it. We browsed in the book shop for a few minutes then realized there was nothing exciting about this place and headed back into the main corridor that lead to the exit when we looked up and realized how extraordinary it truly really was.
ceiling of the mall

There are so many wonderful treasures in the most unexpected places in Europe. We ventured on, doing a little more shopping, I picked up the token tourist memorabilia for my family; the baseball caps, lighters, magnates, etc, all things that you can expect as a stocking stuffer from me. The rain was still unrelenting, but we pushed on, a finding historic looking building which we attempted to enter, but it was locked up tight. This was getting silly, we were soaked, that was when I saw a beacon of luminescent loveliness, otherwise known as "the perfect cafe". Ashlee was less thrilled than I at the prospect of claiming that window table for three overlooking the main thoroughfare, I guess she wasn't in a cafe mood. Actually Ashlee was a bit angsty that whole day, I think the rain was damping her mood (excuse the pun, my father must have suddenly possessed my body temporarily). It was true there was no patio seating, but it was raining, so the point was moot. As I pulled the glass door open, an overwhelming smell of pastries, presumably made on the premises, ensconced me. The furniture was pristine eggshell white...everywhere, from the comfortable Ikea armchairs to the velvet loveseats, each partnered with an classic marble top round cafe table or coffee table. Attractive, fashionable people were sprawled about comfortably, involved spirited conversation, the occasional cosy embrace, and few with stoic visages starring out the window clearly with their thoughts elsewhere. Was this my version of Heaven?! Was I dead and gone, if so, this seemed a suitable place to spend all eternity! When I think I have found a candidate for the perfect cafe designation, it best to order something truly indulgent, as this is the most accurate measure of it's perfection. "Are you ready to order?" "One cream brullet, a single espresso, and a cup if hot water on the side, please". (I can't trust Europeans to make a proper Americano, who cares that they bloody invented it!) Even in the grandest cafe on the planet, I couldn't risk there being ignorant barrista having power to sully the perfect cafe's reputation in my eyes.

I had procured a fashion magazine at some point during the day, and I gleefully sipped my Man.D-made Americano and cracked into my cream brullet and snapped of a square of dark chocolate which accompanies my beverage with the sheer contentment as the rain continued to coat streets outside and tickle the plate glass window at my side. I lazed in my perfectly proportioned armchair with my friends, my magazine and my treats, thinking that life doesn't get any better than this.

I was in no hurry to to go, after spending an hour in the greatest cafe on the planet, but Ashlee and Mylo were eager to do and see more. We continued in search of something exciting, a museum maybe or other weather friendly activities. We looked at some more buildings, bought a few more things, but ultimately we gave-up and decided to just find a pub and throw back a few pints. We found a nice spot and actually sat in an interesting window cubbie, it was open to the outside, but was covered and enclosed by an awning and plastic tarp. So it was sort of enclosed only offered a severely obstructed view of the walking street out front. Our waitress was friendly, as there were few customers she joined in our conversation intermittently, focusing most of her attention on Mylo. After a few rounds, we ordered the special, soup and a sandwich of some kind, and called it dinner. Ashlee and I were taking a late flight to Brussels in a few hours, while Mylo would spend another day in Budapest before flying back to the United States. We tried to enjoy the remainder of our time together, laughing, and reminiscing, talking about the future, bitching about relationships, knowing that we would most likely never all be together again. Knowing that it seemed fairly accurate to say that our paths would not cross again without considerable effort, we didn't make any promises to reunite. It wasn't sad, it was life, and we each had one to get back to, which was a nice feeling. Ashlee had her sweet job and new flat in France, Janie had already taken the train back to Italy, Lana and Fedelio were still sleeping under the stars at the rock festival before heading back to Spain, Mylo had job lined up in South Carolina and a girl he had meet just before he left that he seemed increasing more motivated to get back to, and I was in love, a word that hasn't been in my vocabulary in a very long time. It was destined to fall apart on the basis of my inability to stay in one place for a convenient length of time, but for that moment, I still had faith in the prospects of having it all. That might be what I have missed most in the nearly two years that have passed since that day. Making the most of everyday and sucking every nanosecond of excitement out of each daily discovery, and trusting that he would be there when I was done gallivanting around Europe.

Later that night we returned to the hostel for the last time, I felt a wee bit tipsy but completely satisfied with the time in the land of the natural hot spring water fountains, killer Carpathian valley allergies, the fabulous fudlare, the menicing mosquitos and spiders, the two Arizonias, the Octagon, the dictators, the random squators, the Turkish bathhouses, the silly students, the cabbies and their smoking breaks, the cold cherry soup, the disappearing hostel, the Beaver, the goulash, the slow sticky train rides, the chained cow, the old fashion school bell, the bicycle traffic, the gypsy market, and the endless expanse of paprika and sunflowers stretching as far as the eye can see. I can't imagine the summer of 2007 without all of those elements.

-Fin-

Sunday, May 10, 2009

The City by Night: The Magyar Memoir part 14

Following our exhilarating, yet exhausting, day at the baths, somehow we managed to get back to our "hostel neighborhood". We got cleaned up and headed back out for dinner, to the same wonderful spot where we had had the gelato the day prior. This time I had the Magyarian delicacy, Goulash. It was full of sausage and sweet paprika, even on a warm summer night, it is unbeatable! It was sort of muggy and warm out, we were seated on the patio facing the promenade and a view of the Dona. After swallowing a bottle of Egerian red wine,(Eger is a well known wine-growing area east of Budapest)too stuffed for dessert, an after dinner walk was in order to clear our alcohol hazed heads and calm our bulging bellies. So we headed back across the bridge where the afternoon market was held, toward the waterfront bellow the museums on the opposite side of the river.

As we approached the winding hill we had descended from the day before, we heard a commotion of happy drunken voices, but we didn't see anyone, just some work men silently setting up some tables and chairs in a beer garden that didn't appear to be open yet. We continued towards the hill, walking along the road, the noise seemed to be coming from the vaulted tunnel cut into the hill to allow cars to pass under. We looked up as the voices became more pronounced, sure enough, there were about 15 teenagers on top of cement edge of the tunnel entrance; laughing and carrying on from their precarious perch. It took only second for us to engage in a unspoken agreement to try to get up there. We analyzed their location and set up the stone path part way up the hill, then diverted off road through the trees and dirty in the directions of the voices. I might add this was a moonless night, and we had only our mobile phones to act as a makeshift flashlights. I trailed behind as I had flip-flops of some other non-hiking friendly shoes. I manged to navigate my way over tree roots, around, between and over boulders, and through small sharp thickets to a small clearing where Ashlee and Mylo were lingering, waiting on me. As I came into the clearing I let my guard down, safe at last, another successful night hike in improper footwear in a less than sober state of mind...uff!! At that moment I tripped over a stone retaining wall of some kind that's purpose is still unbeknownst to me. I fell face first into the concrete top of the tunnel for an audience of 15-20 Czech teens to see- these teens as a matter of fact!

budapest

I was bleeding in several places, but thank god I was wearing jeans, since my legs took the brunt of the skidding impact. After Ashlee and Mylo had composed their chortling over my collision with concrete, we gawked at the view (the way Clark W. Griswold does when they go to the Grand Canyon in the first National Lampoons Vacation) It was not as spectacular a view as my foreshadowing may have implied. We got back on the stone path and went headed towards the trolley that had taken us up the hill, where we found a footbridge that offered us a more civilized platform from which to take-in the city lights, there I took some of my favorite pictures of my trip. The first one is of Ashlee and I in the foreground, my finger bandaged with some random tissues someone had, and a few leaves still adhered to my hair; the lovely lit up city in the background. For the second shot, I managed to pull myself together and hide my wounds, that is the picture I choose to remember.
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